Borra vattenbrunn (kostnad)

[Isaan Butterfly]

Hej Forden Jag fick borrat ett 5 cm hål 25 m djupt for 2,5 år sedan. Pris 3500 baht.

Byggaren kände en man som har borr på pickupen och kan borra 30 m med det.

Han kopte och tryckte ner plastror när hålet var klart. Pris for roren inkl kopplingar till pumpen 2000 baht

Sedan har jag en Star ``Deep wheel pump´´ Pris ca 7000 Baht

Har fungerat utan problem sedan dess.

Har ingen brunn eller tank. Vid elavbrott använder vi vattenledningen från byn.

Ändrades Januari 22, 2012 av Isaan Butterfly

[khun-petch]

Hej ni som har borrat eller grävt djupt kan ni dricka vattnet eller krävs det ändå rening.

[thaiola]

rening på grund av sedementeringen (utfällning/grummligt)

[måne]

Vi gjorde som piloten och vårt vatten är perfekt att dricka utan några reningar.Och priset blev som han säger.

[Guest Forden34]

Vi gjorde som piloten och vårt vatten är perfekt att dricka utan några reningar.Och priset blev som han säger.

Det blir bara vatten till högtryckstvätten

I den andra brunnen som vi har är det drickbart men då vi köper vatten på dunk

behövs det inte drickas ur brunnen men det klart å fint vatten å det smakar intet illa heller

[piloten66]

Hej Forden Jag fick borrat ett 5 cm hål 25 m djupt for 2,5 år sedan. Pris 3500 baht.

Byggaren kände en man som har borr på pickupen och kan borra 30 m med det.

Han kopte och tryckte ner plastror när hålet var klart. Pris for roren inkl kopplingar till pumpen 2000 baht

Sedan har jag en Star ``Deep wheel pump´´ Pris ca 7000 Baht

Har fungerat utan problem sedan dess.

Har ingen brunn eller tank. Vid elavbrott använder vi vattenledningen från byn.

[kilroy]

så här grävde dom en brunn åt mig för 10.000 bath

[Tallviking]

Min kostade 12000 men samma typ och djup

[Khun Ken]

Nyttig information, men på engelska.

http://www.thaivisa.1390-boreholes/

BOREHOLES

Lots of us have water boreholes and there are some of us who would like a water borehole.

But you get boreholes and you get boreholes i.e. some will work good & proper for a long time, and some will be nothing but trouble trouble trouble….because the borehole industry in Thailand, like all industries, has its “cowboys”.

Some things you can do and some things to look out for when selecting the right man to do the job.

1) Jump in the pickup and drive around a bit – check out who else around you has a borehole and have a chat with them. Find out:

- how deep the hole is

- how much water it produces p/day

- is it year round (or if it changes, by how much does it change).

- what pump do they use (submersible or plunger type – down to around 10m you can get away with a plunger type, much further you’re best off with a submersible, they are more expensive)

- how long has it been in use

- lastly, who bored it and what did it cost.

Check out as many as you can around your village/area – that will give you a realistic idea of what you can expect to get from a borehole on your land. You may even want to get a sample of the water and test it yourself for nitrates/nitrites/ calcium ect ect (done easily & cheaply). If its just for the house and garden 3 cubic meters volume a day is fine – which you can pump out with a couple of truck batteries if you have no ac mains power. Yup, so boreholes in rural areas do make a lot of sense.

Generally you have 2 sizes in Thailand: for domestic use you don’t need more than a 6” diameter borehole, but for agriculture use and small businesses you want 12” diameter borehole (that’s not to say 6” won’t do – it can, and often does – just that you’d be better off volume wise if it was 12” diameter).

Check too if you need permission – some areas you’ll have to go off and have a chat with the local Phu Yai (village head or District Head at the local district office, and in other areas no-one cares) – but check. The only time you’ll get a “no” answer is if you’re in an area that is surrounded by industry and the ground water is known to be not safe, or if there is a ground water quota in your area which is been exceeded (there some areas around Bangkok like that, where some industries lift large quantities of H2O from the ground, but out in the “sticks” I have heard of no restricted areas for quota based reasons).

Now’s the time to have a chat with the guys who dig the holes – and to take note what you have been told by others, compare it carefully with what the borehole digger tells you – because they can tell some tall stories – for every 10 boreholes dug, at least half of them won’t be serviceable after 5 – 10 years and its usually because they weren’t dug properly in the first place, not because there isn’t any water.

So what are the problems:

1) Slurry Slurry Slurry – other than fuel it’s the boreholers biggest expense, but it’s the most important component in boring. It will determine how long the borehole lasts and it will determine how many times you have to lift your pump to take stones out the impeller or indeed, replace your pump. The slurry is a mud that is injected down the hole and (because of its density) is used to lift all the loose dirt and in particular the stones, out of the hole as it is sunk. A lot of cowboy borers just do not use it because it cuts their expense. It must be used. It also ensures that the side of the hole are consistant – it will seep into the uneven side wall forming a consistant smooth surface which consolidates the wall and helps to prevent it from collapsing in over time – nothing worse than having a borehole wall that has collapsed in at 30 meters and compressing part of the tube wall – stopping you from retrieving your expensive submersible pump to get the stones out the impeller! So when you go round to see the guy (always best to go & see him first – and then follow it up with a meeting at your place), just look around his yard to see if there are slurry settling tanks lying around. If he uses slurry he’ll have settling tanks lying around because they like to collect it as it comes up, let it settle and pump it back down again. No tanks then ask him if you uses slurry. If he says not needed, then move on. IT IS NEEDED to do the job properly – simple as that.

2) Borehole tubing –you get borehole tubing and you get borehole tubing. The cowboys will use the thinnest stuff they can get away with. Go check out the tubing yourself – get a quote from the boreholer, then ask him what the tubing costs, get that taken off and go get it yourself – so you know what’s been used and get advise from the hardware store as to what is good tubing and what is not. Don’t skimp on the lining.

3) Joining the tubes in the hole: 3 methods – threaded, screwed, pvc adhesive. Use screws and you are asking to be screwed. They will rust if not stainless steel, which will mean if ever you have to lift the lining you will not be able to. If not correctly screwed in they can break, or just as bad – as someone else has reported: they stuck through so far into the hole in his case they prevented him from getting the pump down the hole. The sharps ends can also wreck havock on the power supply cable in the hole over time. PVC adhesive would be a better choice, but again, it’s adhesive strength can breakdown over time which again will prevent you from lifting the tubes if you ever need to. End threaded tubes are the best – they form a good tight joint and wont separate.

4) Dropping the pump: if using a submersible use 2 (TWO) stainless steel wire cables – not one. If one snaps you’re buggered – try lifting a 10kg submersible from 30 meters on it’s power cable. Not wise. Use two cables so you have redundancy and ensure they are stainless steel not normal multi-strand wire steel.

5) Who to use: well, I assuming you have been speaking to the locals who have boreholes and they have all had theirs done by the same guy and they have all been going for 5 or 10 years,, then I guess that’s a fair bet. But failing that, and having understood all the above will be adhered to, what else: well, ask the guy if he has hydrology maps for your area. All the professionals will have maps and water table data for your area and will be able to tell you the mean, low and high water table levels for your area, season to season for the last 20 years – something that has been and is monitored very carefully by the authorities all over Thailand.

6) Get a good concreate cap poured around the borehole at ground level – and have a lockable cap on the top of the tube (to stop rubbish getting into the tube and someone nicking your submersible pump – they do get nicked).

How deep will your borehole have to be – well, about as deep as those around you who have boreholes, but there is no average – each area, depending on its elevation above sea level will have its water table at a different height relative to the surface – and will be affected by the geology of the region. Some areas are as shallow as 6 – 10meters for good all year round water supply, and in other areas (like where I am) you have to go down 80 – 100 meters to get year round water. Clay areas shallow, chalky areas deeper, and the deepest boreholes are found in the sandstone and granite areas – which also give the best water as the sandstone acts as a brilliant filter. Chalky areas make the water real hard with calcium.

Ändrades November 5, 2012 av Khun Ken

[IngeVidare]

Vi gjorde som piloten och vårt vatten är perfekt att dricka utan några reningar.Och priset blev som han säger.

Har ni testat vattnet på ett labb?

På vissa ställen kan det finnas mineraler/metaller o dyl som inte är hälsosamma.

[Khun Ken]

En sak att tänka på om man skall borr efter vatten är att göra det när torr-perioden pikar, då är grundvattnet som lägst.

[Guest Isan Lover]

Har ni testat vattnet på ett labb?

På vissa ställen kan det finnas mineraler/metaller o dyl som inte är hälsosamma.

Hej

Helt riktigt och även salt kan vara ett problem t.ex i Isaan.

Mvh isan lover

[IngeVidare]

Hej

Helt riktigt och även salt kan vara ett problem t.ex i Isaan.

Mvh isan lover

Jag testar brunnen i Sverige för allt mineraler, metaller, bakterier och bekämpningsmedel men borran håller sej fin varje gång!